Languedoc-Roussillon is by far the largest wine-producing region of France with 300,000 hectares under vine, just over one third of the total French acreage. For all this acreage, the Midi has struggled with an image problem and for years was associated with predominantly table wines - it produces only 12 per cent of France's AC wines.

By far the most exciting development over the past 10 years has been in the Vin de Pays* category which provides interesting and affordable wines with unique regional characteristics. It is developments in this area that has allowed French winemaking compete effectively with New World competition. These wines are labelled 'Vin de Pays d'Oc' and are worth seeking out.

Wine styles have been traditionally big, heady, alcoholic reds based around the local indigenous grape varieties, Carignan, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Grenache. Quantity rather than quality was the order of the day. The developments, however, in the Vin de Pays sector have seen the planting of the classic varieties i.e. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, even Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay which were otherwise prohibited under the strict AC regulations. Investment in technology, notably temperature-controlled fermentation, has resulted in fresh, fruity varietal wines for early drinking at affordable prices.

Traditionalists will, however, argue that the local indigenous varieties reflect more the character of the region and many of the AC wines e.g. Minervois, Corbieres, Fitou have that delightful earthy, spicy, southern dimension to be found nowhere else in France, save possibly the southern Rhone.

Unlike other regions of France where single estates, Chateaux and Domains are common, the wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon are mainly produced by co-operatives who purchase their grapes from the various local growers. Apart from its still dry red and white wines, the Languedoc-Roussillon also produces another style of wine known as Vin Doux Naturel or VDN's usually made from the Muscat or Grenache grapes.